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City of monks in Saffron robe

Updated: Jun 8, 2019

It felt good to be back in Luang Prabang.

After 5 years since my first visit in 2007, there were only 3 things that I wanted to do in Luang Prabang. Ironically … this is what I had in my itinerary. -Read The Godfather -Visit the night market -Overdose on Lao coffee.


Joma

My fav thing to do in Luang Prabang. Hanging out at Joma.


The sun came out at 5am in the morning.


By 6am, Laotians were up and about for the alms giving ceremony, which was performed religiously every morning. Rain or shine.


It was a bit chilly that morning, it was still drizzling and I had just finished another chapter of The Godfather at the comfort of my bed in Sayo Naga Guesthouse. It was my last day in Luang Prabang and knowing very well that I would not be back for a while, I reluctantly drag myself out of bed to witness the much raved about alms giving ceremony in Luang Prabang.


I walked towards Sisavangvong Road and saw an army of monks in saffron robe walking into the city from nearby monasteries.


Barefoot. In solemn. Each carrying an alms bowl. Marching towards a handful of tourist, who stood in a very close proximity with the monks and locals performing the alms giving ritual.


City of monks in Saffron robe

City of monks in Saffron robe


I took out my camera, took a few shots and felt like shit.


I really felt like shit.


I felt intrusive photographing the monks. And hated myself for dragging me up 5am in the morning for something that I didn’t really enjoy doing.


After observing the alms giving ceremony, I headed over to my usual spot. Ordered a tuna baguette and a hot cup of Lao coffee, socked up the street vibe, basked in a language that I don’t understand, and flipped through the pages of The Godfather.


And I felt better instantly.


You know why I love Luang Prabang? Apart from Laos Coffee, the magnificent wats and the night market?


Because it’s so manageable by foot. All the city highlights practically situated at Sisavangvong Road. No haggling with touts for tuk tuk rides and no wasting time looking and trying to understand maps. Besides, long walks are therapeutic. Especially in a foreign land.

Without a care in the world, I momentarily pushed my emails, the impending proposals and just bask in the notion of the much needed me-time in a city that exude so much charm.


Joma Cafe I spent a lot of time in Joma, the Starbucks equivalent in Indochina reading chapters after chapters of The Godfather. It’s not surprising that Joma has been touted as the best café in Laos. There’s a huge selection of F&B that is well prepared. The Caramela and coconut cake is out of this world. If I had to tag #foodporn in my instagram, eateries from Joma would fall under this category. Just because it gives me orgasm in every bite and sip from the cuppa.


Joma

Heavenly coffee and pastries


The Mekong I spent some time at the Mekong riverfront, admiring the quiet Mekong river and remembering how it was once bustling with long boats transporting tourist to Pak Ou caves during the high season in December in 2007.


I noticed a few notice monks in saffron robe bathed and played in the river. They saw me, and starting whistling.


Slow boat at the mekong river

Slow boat at the mekong river


Then, I was approached by a boat man by the name of Khampong asking if I was interested to crossed the Mekong River to the village of Ban Xieng Maen to visit several wats on the hilltop on the opposite side of the river for 60,000 Kips. I tried to bargain for 40,000 Kips, he said 50,000 Kips. I was feeling exceptionally generous and said ‘OK’. Although I was well aware that I’ve been overcharged. He had a good heart, a decent man, he named a price and I was willing to pay.


Boat man and mekong river

Boat man and mekong river


Life on the other side of the Mekong looked as though it has frozen in time. 5 years old children ran freely without a single care in the world.


novice monks

novice monks


How wonderful if I could stay a bit longer.

And I dreamt a little dream…

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